dodge.pickup.olympus.cx

Thought maybe I glanced at one in the sticky a while back but I was wrong. I just wanted to compare what I have done with some others. Figured this would help give me an idea of what to do or what not to do when I do the A1000. So if anybody has pics or any other info on what they have done let me know. I like having things to compare to.

I Just Got Through Installing The 366 Spring.
Thought I Did It Alright But It Will Only Idle.
If You Touch The Throttle It Will Die.
I Let It Warm Up And It's Still The Same. This Is My Work Truck Any Help Is Apprecated.

So I got a 1st gen intercooler for free and am gathering the parts needed to get it going.

1. Providing I can get a hold of some first gen tubes, will the intake horn bolt up to the intake plate or will I have to rotate it 180* for it to clear the M/C?

2. Will a 24v intake horn work as well or again will I have to rotate the plate?

3. If I do have to rotate the plate, will either of these horns clear the injection lines? Does anyone know if I can still use the stock throttle bracket and use spacers to mount it to the intake plate.

4. I most likely will have to hold up on a turbo upgrade. Besides having to clock the housing, is there any other issues I should be aware of?

I have a `93 LE I've owned since `98. The winters in Pa are taking it's toll ever since the salt brine has been used. I've got holes in the bottom fender, one rocker panel, door is showing some pop, front part of roof and now my tailgate hinge pins are gone.
Is there a replacement for the hinge on these or a fix? The part I'm talking about is the tube like pin that comes out of the bed box and goes into the gate. I'm getting a little frustrated[duhhh] and trying to keep this truck going is getting to be a PIA. I love this truck and want to do a complete repair and paint to the body and mechanicals (which aren't to bad). Is it worth it?? I feel like I'm wasting time and money sometimes but the new trucks just don't turn me on!![eyecrazy]

I need to find the link to install my 366 spring.Need the one with pictures.
Thanks

im plannin on doing the power screw adjusment in the next couple of days depending on the weather. are there any suggestions you guys have to look out for or anything? just wonderin it seems simple but any suggestions would be nice

I recently found some pictures of the screws you can play with on your 727 or 518 without too much quality or direction. Since my tranny has never been quite right in my 89, I figured I'd take pictures along the way to show how incredibly easy this really was!! I can't believe I didn't do it sooner!

If you have a 2wd, I would highly suggest lifting the front end and putting it on jackstands. It's a little tight under my 2wd vs my 4wd. I would suggest putting the front on stands anyway so your transmission pan is tilted aft, and you know where the fluid is going to come out when you loosen the pan.

I took the truck for a drive to get the tranny fluid warm so it would drain out better for me first. Once the front end was up, I set up a few pig mats and my oil drain pan under the tranny pan. Loosen the 1/2" pan bolts and gently pull down on the after end of the pan. I loosened the after ones more than the forward ones so it could til even more back. After it didn't drain anymore, I removed all bolts except 2 that were diagonal from each other. I then pressed the pan back in place with one gloved hand while I removed the other two bolts. I then carefully lowered the 3/4 full pan to the floor, and then drained it out.

Remove the filter with the 3 long allen head screws. Take note how it's orientated along with the aluminum spacer. You can figure it out, but it's much easier if you take note of it now, the hole on the back of the filter MUST line up with the hole in the spacer upon re assembly.

FIRST, lets adjust the bands. You will need a small torque wrench that can dial in 72 inch pounds, OR 6 ft-lb. They are kind of expensive but you can use them for all sorts of things that we usually just say "good n' tight will work". I'm not sure how critical this is, I've read some transmission guru's do it by hand sometimes, but I am FAR from a transmission guru!

Anyway, you will also need a 5/16" 8 point socket...



The band adjuster bolts have a rounded, square heads. I couldn't get any SAE or SI 12 point sockets to work since the edges of the head are slightly rounded. Luckily I had 5- 8 point sockets that came with my Craftsman tool kit that I've never used in 7 years until now.

This is the Front (kickdown) band adjustment, the square head screw with the 3/4" locknut. This is on the driver side. Left is forward, right is aft. That cable with the rubber boot is the kickdown cable. So if you can't find this band adjuster, just follow the cable down and you'll find it. FYI, the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) is just to the right behind that transmission cooler line in the middle of the picture. It has a few wires sticking out of it...



Loosen the band adjustment screw lock nut 4-5 turns. Make sure band adjustment screw turns easily. Tighten the band adjustment screw to 72 inch-pounds, then back it off 2 1/2 turns. Hold the adjustment screw in place and tighten the lock nut back up. It's difficult to hold this and get the locknut tight without removing some linkage. I used a swiveling head 3/4" ratchet wrench and was able to do it. I held the adjuster with a socket and extensions while the ratchet I was using was in OFF (CCW) position to hold the screw in place.

Now the Rear Band adjustment. Loosen the band adjustment screw lock nut 5-6 turns and make sure the band adjustment screw moves freely. Tighten the adjusting screw also to 72 inch-pounds, but only back of 2 turns this time...



Hold the adjustment screw in place same as before, and tighten the lock nut. This one is far easier to do...




There, that was pretty simple! Now, we can monkey with the line pressure and shift points a little more if your kick down cable can't get all the adjustment you desire. I can see this adjustment being VERY good for 3200 rpm spring installs since it will help delay low throttle shifting without screwing up your WOT shift points via the kickdown cable...

I read not to adjust this more than 2 full turns CW, this is a 3/6" allen wrench. I only did 1 full turn and felt it helped a bit, but I also increased line pressure so I'm not sure which had better benefits...



Next you'll need to modify a 3/16" allen wrench. I used a cheapy kicking around in my tool box, not my nice, ball ended one...



Now, this will adjust your line pressure. This is good if you turned up your engine some, it will give a little more pressure on the clutch pack I believe. You should test line pressure from the testing ports and adjust it to a certain pressure, and only adjust so much beyond that too. I was lazy. I was told I could increase pressure 5 or 6 psi extra no matter what. Since I have a 21 year old transmission, my line pressure is probably a little lower than stock anyway.

To adjust line pressure, you need to turn this screw CCW. Every turn is about 2 1/2 - 3psi of line pressure. I gave it 2 full turns...



Now I'm done. I installed my new transmission filter (that's for another thread), and reused the old pan gasket because it was a soft rubber and my new one from NAPA was cork [yuk]. Don't over tighten the pan cause you are screwing into Aluminum. I think torque specs are only 13ft-lbs or something like that (good opportunity to use that expensive fancy torque wrench you just bought again!). Refill your tranny and check you fluid level IN NEUTRAL, not park. I always checked in park, and was running about 2 qts low because of this!

I warmed the truck up and adjusted my kickdown cable off a little so my WOT shifting didn't require a lift anymore. MAN, this tranny feels MUCH nicer now! At 55mph climbing a hill by my house I no longer have the engine climb to 2000 or 2100rpm. It stays at 1800-1900 or so. Burnouts are way too easy now, I definitely am VERY happy with these adjustments!!! I hope others can benefit from this as well. Happy Dieseling!

-Luke

Hey folks,

I have a 91.5 W250...I hear she's got the lagmaster turbo setup. ;)

I'm wondering if there's a site that breaks down which turbos came on which trucks and which ones are good for what goals, etc...

I can see myself wanting some more performance in the future, but would like to know, say, if it'd be better to get a different turbo or to just replace the exhaust housing.

Anyway...thanks! :)

Other than keeping and eye on EBay, does anyone know where I could pick up a new set of fender emblems for a 92 W250?

I've read some where on here about re torquing the head to 125 lbs. I looked through the sticky & didn't see on this. Whats your feelings about this & whats the proper procedure?

The motor in question does or WILL have;
DDP 80 hp, 55 LPM injectors
3200 spring
S300 turbo
turned up injection pump
low pressure lift pump
3 piece pulse exhaust manifold
4" exhaust
bumped timing
& a lot of gauges


Thanks guys!!
Jim

Well, my 92 has been down for over a month now, and I'm starting to think up crazy ideas like building an auto for it, driving my non turbo IDI Ford has me going pretty nuts... LOL

Anyhow, I should finally be able to pick up my parts donor next weekend, it's a 96 2500. I'm probably going to swap the P-pump engine over along with the 4500, just curious what kind of a project I'm getting myself into.
I'm assuming I'll need to keep the accessories, fan, bracketry, etc off of the stock engine, I know about needing to swap the damper and CPS, just curious what else I'm going to need to swap.
Also, what is the best route to go for exhaust? Can I fit a second gen downpipe in there?

Ok, my machinest advised that we do not mill the head because it has conformed to the block. Thoughts?
-mark

Ok so my o/d quit working along with my speedo and after reading (mainly posts on here) i learned that if the speedo doesnt work it wont shift into o/d.So i did all the tests from the thread ''fixing the O/D lockout module'' then i changed the vss,and still no speedo.I havn't tried the jumper wire for overdrive because i want my speedo workin again.my question, is there a way to check the vss to make sure its making a signal for the PCM to read,so that i know the gear that drives the vss(inside the tailshaft housing)is good?
And what else could keep the speedo from working?

hey all,

well i put a new alternator on my 90 w250, because it stopped chargeing, well now the new one isn't charging. So i got it checked and it was pushing 15 volts so it was fine, but then i thought the external regulator. I replaced that and still no charge. Any help is appreciated.

thanks
garrett

Well guys, I just bought a 91.5 dodge d250 with the cummins diesel and I need some help figuring out my problem: I turn the key on and sometimes my guages(wait to start, water in fuel,etc) don't light up or do anything and the truck wont start, then sometimes it works fine.... any ideas of what it the problem is I am having? The guy I bought it from said he turned the key on and it didnt light up at all, and his buddy was there, and used a jumper wire from somewhere to somewhere and it fired right up, but again he was an old man and didnt know what 2 wires his friend ran one across to touch both together. Again any ideas? I'm a new to diesel owner and any help would be appreciated.


thanks,
Jon

I am going to have my ARP studs any day now, and am going to port my head, and fire ring it while I am at it (and maybe mill off the intake log).

Anyone know the specs for fire rings? Also, what head gasket and wire size and type?

truck has no power windows or heat/ac blower, checked the fues, fues is ok on the back of the fues block the (blk with red wire)that is the wire that feeds the windows and heater,wire has power with the fueses out but when i put the fues in it loses power its not popin the fues just loses power. both the heater and pwr windows work i ran a hot from the battery and they both work..

what you guys think it is..

what would you guys think if i were to paint the white strip in between the red on my truck black? ive seen chevy's and ford's done like this, never a dodge. you can see what it looks like now in my picture gallery, and imagine what it would be with the black lol or if anyone is good at paint and wants to give me a visual that'd be great too.

So i remember seeing those factory custom toolbox beds they put on a truck maybe a few year ago... well i can't find one anywhere!!! I was windering what one of these beds might look like on a first gen... as most beds don't look right on most first gens without other modifications.

If anybody has a picture or maybe a link to this mystery box please let me know.
Thanks,
Nick

I put in a new power steering pump and gear box, since then you can take the steering wheel with one finger and flick it and it will turn from far right all the way to far left. Does anyone have any ideas of whether it is the power steering pump or the gear box? If it is the pressure relief valve, where is it located? In the pump or the box? Thanks, Neal